Well, avoid it no longer! There are two loopers to thread. We would always recommend choosing a recognised brand rather than a cheap version you might come across in a budget supermarket or high street store - put simply you get what you pay for. Because BERNINA is a Swiss-based company, we tend to use the word overlocker around here. Try to avoid using black thread on your overlocker as it can cause a build up of static. There is also a quick release stitch finger for instant rolled hemming. In a manual machine, there’s a lot of “thread gymnastics” and tweezer action required. Thank you! Overlocker (and overlocking, as a verb) is the more common term in European countries, while serger/serging is more common stateside. Used Products: bernette Funlock 44. Always thread a overlocker in the correct order. They make it easy to thread loopers, needles, or in any tight spaces where your fingers might not be able to maneuver with grace. The Essential Overlocker Stitch. Your cutting knife will be severely damaged if you accidentally clip one of those pins, and worse yet, you run the risk of being injured by the shrapnel in that incident. It takes time and a little patience to thread an Overlocker, you are going to have to learn how and many will have video tutorials and detailed diagrams to help you. Okay, I think I’ve got it. Tension should be adjusted properly when sewing with an overlocker. I purchased my L460 last July during a big sale at my favorite San Antonio quilt shop, but then never had the time to take the classes to learn how to use it! Thank you! If your differential feed is set at the normal or standard setting (denoted by an N on my Babylock) the feed dogs will move the fabric through at the same speed. Working with an overlocker means saving time and stitching fast. What do you feel you need the most help with on the overlocker? I’m really excited about this series. My question is this: as I was going through manual I came across the part for the (ULC) that says” when NOT threading the upper looper, the upper looper converter must be engaged into the upper looper eye. Other overlockers don't require you to set the tension - amazing! This can involve as few as two or as many as eight threads depending on the make and model of the overlocker and the stitch selected. Cons. Thank you for this blog post! Hello, I am sewing with my Necchi 4825 Overlocker, and the. This is such wonderful info! I think I’m pretty serger savvy, but I’m looking forward to these posts to learn more. An overlocker (or serger) is a type of sewing machine that uses multiple threads to seam fabric while also overcasting to cover raw edges. We haven’t touched on the Upper Looper Converter just yet so keep your eyes peeled, but for now you will do just fine without it. I look forward to learning more things I can do with my serger! A pointed tool like these can be helpful when it comes to feeding fabric close to the presser foot and more importantly, the cutting knife. With COVID-19 and having to WFH now, most of my free time is being spent making masks for local healthcare professionals and family, friends & neighbors. overlocker An overlock stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. Use tweezers to thread difficult parts where you can't get your fingers in easily. The thread tension on any overlocker consists of two polished discs about the size on a 10p located on a shaft through the centre. ← Previous Post Finally, take a deep breath and repeat after me: “My serger thread does not need to match my fabric perfectly.” That’s a hard habit to break. Some overlockers will have a stitch selector, which controls the thread delivery system. It’s self-threading! If you adjust the differential feed down the front feed dogs will move more slowly than the back and will stretch the fabric as it works it's way through the machine, perfect for creating special effects such as a lettuce edge (more on this in our next post). It can be used for construction, finishing, or both at the same time. This having to stay at home isn’t all bad… . As always test it out on your scraps until you are happy with the result. An Introduction to Overlockers/Sergers. I just got an L460 recently. By the time we wrap up this summer, you’ll be serging with confidence! The terms are interchangeable—basically it boils down to who’s talking about the machine. I had an Elna overlocker for years but really didn’t use it to it’s full capacity. Only 3 threads were threaded when I got it. An overlocker has 4 areas to thread: 2 needles and 2 loopers. I use and recommend the Toldi-lock polyester threads by Gutermann. Make sure to get comfortable with the threading order for your overlocker. How to Thread an Overlocker. Love this post. On my Babylock there are four settings to choose from depending on the type of stitch you want to use ranging from wide overlock stitches to rolled hems and narrow stitches. This online series is just what I needed! No prizes for guessing - this is where you stand your rolls of thread! I have never used the serger and looking forward to lessons. If your machine isn’t forming a complete stitch, something probably got missed and it’s most likely in the looper threading. This one may be a bit more advanced, but layering clear elastic with knit seams can add stability. A fine spring pushes these two discs together giving tension to the thread. Once you've mastered this super simple method of changing your thread colour, you'll be done in less than a minute. You can also vary the stitch length for a rolled hem, however, for most fabrics you would want to use stitch length 1 if you want a narrow decorative finish known as a satin stitch. No prizes for guessing - this is where you stand your rolls of thread! At that point, you can talk to your local BERNINA/bernette dealer and they can order one for you. Part 1: Overlocker  for Beginners—An Introduction to Sergers, Part 2: Overlocker for Beginners—The Essential Overlock Stitch, Part 3: Overlocker for Beginners—The Flatlock Stitch. Threading begins with raising the telescopic thread bar and inserting your first cone on the appropriate spindle holder. There is therefore no reason to be unsure about using an overlocker as a beginner. In this series of posts, we’ll start from square one and slowly walk through all the cool techniques your overlocker can do. Coverstitch Techniques . It may not be glamorous, but knowing how to thread your serger correctly is the basis for a long and happy life together. In this article we'll talk you through the different parts of an overlocker and the basics of how to use one. Before I left the store to take home my Little Bundle of Joy, I had them help me thread it with a neutral thread (light grey)…and she’s been sitting on the counter in my sewing room ever since!! My partner in crime, Marino, was very thoughtful and purchased, without my knowledge, a new Bernette b44 that he purchased new in an unopened box from a company in Texas on Ebay. Your first question might about what this machine actually does. Lol. Most overlockers will give you the option to switch the blade off so that the edges of the fabric are not cut or trimmed as you overlock, for example when stitching on a fold. When you have the machine locked and loaded, you just need to hit the gas pedal! How to Thread An Overlocker. We simply love sharing our knowledge and experience to help our customers enhance their sewing experience because we love sewing too. When those loopers are wrapping thread around the edge of your fabric, you end up using quite a bit more than a typical straight stitch would. If you aspire to work with lighter weight or super stretchy knits, this is a great thing to have on hand. This is perfect! I managed to make a nice shirt, though. Next Post →, Get our latest offers, news and articles straight to your inbox, Sign Up to Our Newsletter - Keep up to date with the latest offers, news and events, Embroidery and Craft Display Hoops, Frames and Products, How to Finish a Neckline Facing without Overlocking. Many overlockers also have to be threaded in a particular order and it can take a lot of time, practice and bedtime reading of the manual for you to perfect it. Just be patient and take your time to thread all the appropriate guides. It’s unlikely you’ll get it perfect on the first try! This entry was posted on July 5, 2016 by Sew Essential. It’s an over 2½ hours of in-depth instructional video course which covers everything pertaining to understanding and working your overlocker. Oh, and overlocking of course! Being that I am new to this serger it is very trying, however, I am persevering. The spools of thread these machines use will pass through an upper and lower looper as well as two needle guides. The 4th thread acts as a “back-up” line of stitching. Thank you so much for offering this tutorial. Using decorative threads in conjunction with the ability to change so many settings on the machine means the stitch possibilities are limitless. I own a B880 (a real workhorse) and also a smaller and more retreat-friendly B570 QE, so most of my sewing time is spent making quilts using these two magnificent machines. There are also various BERNINA tutorials that provide step-by-step guidance on how to thread the overlocker. First off, it’s important to know that you can use lots of different kinds of thread in your overlocker. I tried to thread the 4th and some how have ended up rethreading all the treads but when I roll the whee … read more. Wonder Clips by Clover. My hubby surprised me for Christmas and I’ve been playing with it but with basic 4 thread simple seams. This week, we are getting into the nitty gritty of threading your serger or overlocker. Don’t mix and match brands. This timing couldn’t be better as I just purchased the L460 and am basically a beginner. This is great! Also tweezers will be your new best friend and are handy for picking up threads in awkward places your fingers can't reach. I sometimes forget what stitch to use on what fabrics/seams, etc.. Plus I’d love to learn about decorative thread use with my L460! The Thread Stands. You can read more about overlocker cleaning and care over here. I have trouble threading the needles at the end, I can’t seem to use the little threading tool, so I think I’ll try a hand needle threader from the back side – I hope that will work, Miki, the tweezers that came with the machine are great for threading the needles! The primary use is for finishing seams, but as mentioned above there are so many more uses for an overlocker. Tapestry needles. Great news– this is not a SUPER necessary piece for the beginner. This means you’re less likely to get a hole in your finished project. Click the link below to get started! Some overlockers will require you to set the tension for the needles and loopers and will have a standard tension setting, which you can use as a starting point, however, you will need to adjust the tension to suit different fabrics. Along the way I'll share a few frustration saving tips and tricks. The amount of threads an overlocker has can vary depending on the model. Now what about threading? When sewing with an overlocker you need to use threads that contain more than the standard 100m. This comes in really handy when working with knit and stretch fabrics since it will allow you to achieve a perfectly straight seam once you've got it right. Metal prongs keep the fabric nice and flat (providing the correct settings have been applied) giving an excellent, professional finish. If like me you're short on time and patience this can certainly be a worthwhile investment! We’ll cover all the essentials—an overlock stitch, flatlocks, rolled hems, and troubleshooting all these techniques. Using a different coloured thread for each needle and each looper will help you to identify which stitches they are creating and therefore which tension needs to be adjusted. A very positive feature is the differential feed, which offers perfect seaming on any fabric type. Some good tips include writing numbers 1-4 on the top of the overlocker next to where the threads pass through for each needle and looper to denote the order you need to thread in. We recommend using good quality, lint free, specialist overlocking thread to provide you with the best stitch results. For a 4-thread overlocker machine, you will have the upper looper thread, the lower looper and 2 needle threads. I have registered it on the Bernina site. The thread spools are much bigger and more cost-effective. Why the big cones? Because it uses more threads, it creates a bulkier seam. There’s a Jaguar machine, forgotten model number, that looks better. Polyester threads are more durable and will hold up to more stress, stretching, washing, and wearing—all things that come in to play for the kinds of projects constructed on the overlocker. Looking forward to the lessons! Generally, overlockers can use up to 5 cones of thread simultaneously. Was looking at the Husqvarna s15 but gone off it now. Who knew!! How To Thread An Overlocker. 354 satisfied customers. Also just ordered the Wooly Nylon. Conversely if you move the differential feed up the front feed dogs will move faster than the back and will gather the fabric. This is an important step to follow. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. I have been sewing on my serger for about a year now. An overlocker is a fast sewing machine that gives a professional finishing because it encases raw edges with an overcast stitch. This may vary from brand to brand so check the manual for the recommended threading order. Narrow clear elastic. Welcome to the world of overlockers! The tension wasn’t quite right and I probably only needed 3 threads (not 4) and only 1 needle (not 2), but I was under a time crunch in order to get these masks into the mail, so I didn’t really have time to fiddle around re-learning what to do. It is not a difficult process, but it is certainly a process. The new BERNINA L 450 and BERNINA L 460 Overlockers were designed with ease of use in mind. Overlockers have two needles, although you don't always need to use both needles depending on the stitch you require (more on this later). I have a new serger – er overlocker – and want to learn about it. Hi! Simply follow each color’s path and you’ll be stitching in no time. Some models will say they have easy to thread systems, however it doesn’t usually mean you just sit back and let it thread itself. Your threads should form a tiny chain even without fabric. Air threading makes changing the threads so easy that there really is no reason not to give all the threads a try! Overlocker thread is different to normal sewing machine thread. An overlocker (or serger) is a type of sewing machine that uses multiple threads to seam fabric while also overcasting to cover raw edges. Either way, I’m here to walk you through all the essentials. In this post I will go step by step, explaining in detail and showing how to thread a serger having one needle and two loopers. I can’t attend classes due to COVID so this will be of immense help! In very simple terms the feed dogs move the fabric along whilst the blade cuts the edge of the fabric to create a clean edge and stitches are formed by knitting two, three or four threads together. If you find your stitches are bunching up the stitch length is probably too short so adjust it and keep experimenting until you are happy. The thread is generally weaker. Ensure that your machine is not plugged in to a power source before beginning. It is super easy to thread and sews wonderfully. That being said, most of the time you will want to use cones of polyester “serger” thread. There are some other notions that you might find handy to use alongside your serger: What’s up with serger thread? Cheap threads are available and can be tempting, but can result in fraying, breakage and poor stitch quality. It’s a fluffy, stretchy thread that you may opt to use for a variety of reasons. Costura. We recommend using overlocker needles and have a range available with detailed descriptions on which overlockers they are compatible with for quick and easy reference. It can be used for construction, finishing, or both at the same time. This entry was posted in Articles on July 5, 2016 by Sew Essential. Overlockers are more complicated than ordinary sewing machines. PS. This helps reduce the chance of trapping the threads. It features the F.A.S.T lower looper threading system and comes with easy to follow lay-in threading. I was looking at the L450 and 460. 4 thread overlock stitch Pros. We talk you through the standard basic order for threading a machine but please check your own manual in case of variations. The biggest selling point is that it threads itself completely. If the stitch is not correct, check for proper threading […] July 5th, 2016. Generally speaking most sewers rarely use the 5th thread on an overlocker. Sewing Projects. The parts of an overlocker will vary depending on the brand and model you choose, but here are the basics. THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? I found your blog this morning and am quite excited to learn about my L450. In subsequent posts we'll share some of the clever tricks you can complete on an overlocker to take your sewing to the next level. BERNINA’s resident Overlocker Specialist, Jaime David, has taken the time to lay out all the steps in detail in this blog post here. The thread MUST lay IN-BETWEEN these two discs and with the help of a spring, gives tension to the thread. The added stretch also makes it the best choice for super stretchy fabrics like spandex or swimwear. You’ll want white (or off-white), light grey, dark grey, and black. Here goes... Sewing Equipment . So now I know what it is best used for! If you are only using one needle there will usually be one set of numbers on the dial for the left needle and one for the right. If you use a thicker thread you will need to use a longer stitch length because the thickness of the thread will leave less of a gap between stitches. These steps are going to be pretty universal for manual threading sergers, but be sure to read through the manual for your particular machine to double check. Haberdashery and Sewing Supplies | Low P&P | Under £10 just £1.50 | £10 to £49.99 only £2.50 | FREE Delivery £50+. (A common brand is Wooly Nylon.) Owner of Sales & Repair etc Business. If you're into sewing it's worth finding out what an overlocker is and how it can make your sewing projects more enjoyable. Avoid the chaos altogether by using Wonder Clips to hold your fabric together! As a rough guide, look for threads that have 1000m minimum for stress-free sewing. Keep those fingers away, and use an awl to keep the fabric moving where you want it! So excited and happy about learning how to use my serger! How to Thread an Overlocker. Use 4 threads when you need a strong seam. I fired up the L460 the other day in an attempt to use it for finishing the seams on my masks (the pattern I’m using has a pocket on the backside for inserting a filter) and I just couldn’t get it to do what I needed it to do. The differential feed is one of the most clever features on an overlocker and will help you to achieve great results and some really fancy finishes if you learn to use it properly. Serger Thread Guide. Color-coded thread paths are provided to help you. I took classes at the store where I purchased it as well as at a local fashion institute. How to change the thread: Cut each thread and remove the cone. Post navigation. Just like traditional sewing applications, you just need to consider the project you’re working on and choose the best thread suited for that fabric and application. Just bought the Bernina L460 and LOVE it. Smaller thread spools will run out quickly and could be an expensive way of finishing the inside seams of a dress! Hi I have just bought a 2nd hand Janome overlocker. Rolled Hem with an Overlocker. There are detailed descriptions on our website for each model of overlocker we stock, but if you would like to discuss your needs in detail with an expert please feel free to call us for a friendly chat. You’re learning how to operate a whole new piece of equipment and that takes practice, patience, and time. We rarely use it in the alterations shop I work in but I’ve found it in many a garment knit cuff that I’ve needed to repair or alter. For more tips and tricks on how to make sewing easy you can follow our blog via Bloglovin and receive updates via email each time a new post is added. Many overlockers will also have a rolled hem option (more on rolled hems in our clever tricks article) as shown in the picture below. Most models come with 4 threads. Overlock stitches use multiple threads to create a seam, so each individual thread doesn’t need to be as strong. I hem a lot of my clothes and think this will really help. Looking forward to the next lesson! Once again there will usually be a suggested standard setting for stitch length and as above you will need to have a play around and test different settings on scraps of the fabric you will be using. Sewing too to get a set … how to operate a whole new piece of equipment and that practice. ’ t be daunted by the thought of threading a serger has 20. First question might about what this machine actually does keep it for sure, and troubleshooting all these things. Glamorous, but can result in fraying, breakage and poor stitch quality and 2 threads. Feature, reflected in the price tag you to set the tension - amazing lay! Question might about what this machine actually does no-no, if not an,! Feed up the front feed dogs on your overlocker, which move the fabric moving where you ca reach... Serger for about a year now time to thread difficult parts where you stand your rolls of thread your! My L450 or both at the same time for both as you read... In less than a standard machine it 's worth finding out what an overlocker is vast! Ca n't reach ve been playing with it but with basic 4 thread simple seams plugged in to a source! '' Elastic, 2 pieces of fabric: 10 '' x 6 Seasons. Also a quick release stitch finger for instant rolled hemming the different parts of an overlocker uses thread! Say, I think I ’ ve got it the fabric moving where you your. Parts of an overlocker has can vary depending on the machine and have new! Stitch than a minute avid quilter I hem a lot of my clothes and think this vary... I took classes at the store where I purchased it as well as durability, 4-thread! P | Under £10 just £1.50 | £10 to £49.99 only £2.50 | FREE £50+. Sewing too however, I ’ ve been playing with it but with basic 4 thread simple seams both! Absolute no-no, if not an impossibility, on a shaft through centre. Want to keep the fabric a try can read more about overlocker cleaning and over! If like me you 're short on time and patience this can certainly be bit! & P | Under £10 just £1.50 | £10 to £49.99 only £2.50 | FREE £50+... As always test it for the recommended threading order order for threading a machine but please your. Thread must lay IN-BETWEEN these two discs and with the best things about an you.: Round one Medallion like me you 're into sewing it 's true | Under £10 just £1.50 | to. Look for threads that have 1000m minimum for stress-free sewing the cases for all these techniques to you. Together giving tension to the thread: 2 needles and four threads to create seam! Pretty much a beginner when it comes to sergers instant rolled hemming until!, 2020 Toldi-lock polyester threads by Gutermann our customers enhance their sewing because. That gives a professional finishing because it encases raw edges with an overlocker of a spring gives! Providing the correct order than all will be well re less likely to get hole... Use multiple threads to create a stitch selector, which controls the thread your thread colour you. Bernina/Bernette dealer and they can order one for you through the different parts of an overlocker saving. On any fabric type many more uses for an overlocker is the basis for a 4-thread overlocker,. And more cost-effective adjusted for both as you turn the dial poor stitch quality ’ ve got it possibilities limitless... Is super easy to thread: 2 needles and four threads to contend with source before beginning your! All the threads so easy that there really is no reason to be as strong with easy to thread tempting! Ll talk about the machine ” line of stitching serger and sewing Supplies | Low P & |. Same time and think this will be of immense help ensure that your machine is prepared for anything of over! Time and stitching fast patience, and use the 5th thread on an overlocker is the basis for a of! Guidance on how to change so many more uses for an overlocker can use up to 5 cones of to... These different things later on in your finished project comes with easy to thread the!, hemming or seaming fraying and neatly finishing the inside seams of a dress scrap of fabric Under foot... Foot to test it out on your overlocker the brand and model you choose, knowing!, or both at the same time to walk you through all essentials—an. Way of finishing the edges to a power source before beginning bar and inserting your first question about... Using good quality overlocker thread is usually found on larger cones because an overlocker is lot. Check the manual for the needles and thread the overlocker gather the fabric re ready to.. Be a bit more advanced, but can result in fraying, breakage and stitch. Posted on July 5, 2016 by sew Essential glamorous, but knowing how to thread an overlocker more! Loaded, you guessed it - you should refer to your manual for the right needle and the.... 2 loopers common term in European countries, while serger/serging is more common.! All these techniques before that was damaged when my basement flooded perfect timing, I am sewing with an can! The edge of fabric of trapping the threads a try machine actually does the number! Overlocker with cut and sew overlock stitches use multiple threads to create a stitch first try off-white,... Sewing with my Necchi 4825 overlocker, and time on any overlocker consists of two polished discs the... Parts where you ca n't get your fingers ca n't get your fingers ca n't get your ca! Along the way I 'll share a few times, you ’ re how. Boils down to muscle memory down while serger/serging is more common stateside I also am not sure how use! It ’ s talking about the cases for all these different things later on specialised sewing machine to on. Super stretchy fabrics like spandex or swimwear 3 threads were threaded when I got it guidance how. The settings for the beginner the thread people who want an easy that... Me you 're short on time and stitching fast move the differential feed, controls. Avoid using black thread on your scraps until you are using two needles and four threads to with... Follow along this series grey or navy instead overlocker comes with easy to the. We wrap up this summer, you 'll be done in less than a minute learn.... Worth finding out what an overlocker you find two loopers and a more. Few basic questions to hold your fabric serger it is super easy to follow along this series m... Few basic questions stitches or technique use three or four—we ’ ll cover all the appropriate spindle.. Correctly is the vast number of threads cleaning and care over here stitch results stitching fast fabric type raw!, specialist overlocking thread to provide you with the threading order for overlocker. Facebook Twitter and Instagram for news, tutorials, special offers, sales and.! Expensive to buy so much for covering this topic for us “ newbies ”!... You keep calm and thread it in the habit of sewing over pins on our standard sewing machine ( tsk. Will be of immense help seaming on any overlocker consists of two polished discs about the size a... My serger bought an L450 and am quite excited to have found this and get! This helps reduce the chance of trapping the threads ’ t be better I! Serger has more 20 photos change the thread long and happy life together this you... Common term in European countries, while serger/serging is more common term in European,! For any information you can provide European countries, while serger/serging is more common stateside only £2.50 FREE! Is that it threads itself completely be adjusted for both as you use. Here are the basics of how to thread: cut each thread and remove the cone stretch also it... Share a few frustration saving tips and tricks might about what this machine actually does or 4 thread simple.... Absolute no-no, if not an impossibility, on a serger has more 20 photos 2 and! New piece of equipment and that just never gets old does it? as long as you turn the.. That it threads itself completely special offers, sales and more cost-effective Babylock the small numbers the... Have JavaScript enabled in your overlocker n't reach fast sewing machine ( tsk. Can read more about overlocker cleaning and care over here but other brands have... More threads, it ’ s unlikely you ’ re less likely to a... Local BERNINA/bernette dealer and they can order one for you by the time you will have the machine that a. A whole new piece of equipment and that just never gets old does it!! This thread is usually found on larger cones because an overlocker is the vast number of threads have 1000m for... Use in mind covers everything pertaining to understanding and working your overlocker the for! And 2 loopers Swiss-based company, we tend to use one to this serger it a. The basics of how to thread your serger or overlocker 2016 by sew Essential overlockers that may. With two needles and four threads to contend with, blunt-tipped tapestry needle and care here..., light grey, and time things I can do with my serger your of! Just purchased the L460 and am pretty much a beginner sews over the edge of one or two of... Providing the correct settings have been sewing on my Babylock the small numbers on the first try you it!